How can I ask via formula if a button is active or not?

I would like to filter only rows with an active button. How can I do that? Thanks for your help

You can use in Filter() the same criteria as you used in button’s Enabled formula.

Now that on the button Enabled is now Disable If, I suggest:
Copy the Disable If formula
Make a new Formula column , name it Enabled
in the Enabled column, Add Formula.
Enter NOT(). Inside the (), paste the formula from Disable If.
Enabled should now read “True” when enabled and “False” when disabled
Back in your button column, under Disable If, replace the filter formula with Enabled=false

Now your count formula just has to read [the table].Filter(Enabled=true).Count()

As @Kristofer_Tripp said, the best approach would be to calculate if the button should be enabled/disabled as a separate column, then both filter by that value and use that value in “Disable if” formula of a button, inverted.

However, for answer completeness — yes, you can filter out the buttons that are disabled, i.e. whose action is internally set to _Noop(), with a formula like this:

Find('"name":"_Noop"', _Merge(thisRow.[My button]) + "") = -1

Warning: this is a discouraged approach. I only give it here for flexing illustration purposes and giving you an idea of the power of Coda.